This
land of the 5000 year old Dravidian civilisation
offers glimpses of ancient traditions and customs,
the exuberance of medieval India, a rich kaleidoscope
of beautiful temples, vast groves of coconuts,
luminous rice-fields stunning backwaters, herds
of elephants, prosperous tea plantations and
the poise of a people borne from their ancient
civilization.
To explore southern
India extensively, Chennai, the capital of the
state of Tamil Nadu is the most convenient point
of entry by flight.
Tamil
Nadu is a bastion of Hinduism, whose
past endures into the present. Temples with
towering spires called gopurams are a common
features of this state, seldom seen anywhere
else in the country. Temples in Tamil Nadu were
the fulcrums of society and even today art forms
that have their origin in religious worship
continue to colour daily life. Notable among
these are splendid bronzes of deities, painting
on glass and Bharatnatyam, an evocative dance
form.
Mahabalipuram, Kancheepuram
& Thanjavur are good examples of
temple towns where, within the temple fortifications
grew a multi-layered society that preached faith
and grew from social harmony. Kanchipuram, also
called Kanjeevaram, is famous throughout the
country as the centre where lustrous silk sarees
are woven. Likewise Thanjavur is an important
centre for bronze figure casting. Mahabalipuram,
with its wealth of sculptures, is located by
the seaside and has excellent resorts.
The towns of Tiruchirapally
and Madurai also contain famous temples
Quite a contrast to the temple heritage is provided
at Pondicherry, for long a French Colony. French
is still widely spoken, and seaside villas and
cobbled streets are more reminiscent of the
south of France than the south of India.
Yet another fact
of this surprisingly diverse state are two hill
stations – Ootacamund and Kodaikanal.
Both are little patches of England, being much
loved by the expatriate population of the Raj.
Both places provide delightful relaxation during
extended tour of the south, having a wide range
of hotel accommodation.
The cuisine of
Tamil Nadu, more or less totally vegetarian,
has become enormously popular all over the country
and few towns have at least one eatery serving
popular snacks from the state’s extensive
repertoire.
With foreign influences
as disparate as Chinese and Portuguese, Arab
and Dutch, Kerala is the spice cost of India.
Edged by a thread of unbroken beach line, the
state’s heart is composed of intensely
green paddy fields and a unique network of rivers
and lagoons. Upland Kerala, relatively little
visited, is composed of hills thickly wooded
with teak and rubber. It is here that Kerala’s
most precious spices are grown in carefully
nurtured plantations of cardamom, pepper and
nutmeg.
Thiruvananthapuram,
the state capital, with an international airport,
has an exceptionally fine museum set in an amusement
park. 16 kms away is Kovalam, one of the most
popular beaches in the country. Many visitors
stay at Kovalam, driving into Thiruvananthapuram,
for sightseeing trips, rather than the other
way around. Sri Padmanabhapuram Palace, a short
drive away, is an important monument.
Cochin,
with a fine natural harbour, has been Kerala’s
center of maritime trade for innumerable centuries.
Along the harbour, rows of antediluvian Chinese
fishing nets indicate Kerala’s trade with
China, just as buildings along the water’s
edge testify to the erstwhile presence of Dutch
and Portuguese colonizers. Jewtown, complete
with an immaculately preserved synagogue, has
a flavour all its own, while Tripnathura, at
the other end of the city, has many traditional
houses with central courtyards. Kerala’s
multitude of faiths – Islam, Judaism and
a host of sects of Christianity and Hinduism
– all co-exist harmoniously in a state
that is known for its Marxist inclinations!
Kerla’s traditions
of dance forms, which originated from
temple worship, can be witnessed at regularly
held performance. Lecture demonstrations of
the most spectacular of these – Kathakali,
are held daily at many centres in Cochin. Teyyam,
once an act of worship and visual feast; temple
festivals complete with caparisoned elephants;
Kalaripayatu, the indigenous art of self defense;
all are a part of Kerala’s remarkable
heritage of performing arts and can be witnessed
at various centres in Cochin and Thirvananthapuram
A five-hour drive
from Cochin leads to thickly forested hills,
past rubber and spice plantations, and into
southern India’s tea growing district
headquartered at the charmingly old-world Munnar.
From Kottayam to Allepey, is a world of palm-fringed
waterways, a route that is covered by motor
launch. Elderly sailboats, long barges transporting
tons of coconuts and tiny skiffs used to transport
children to school are common sights on these
backwaters.
Just off the coast of Kerala are a widely scattered
group of coral islands – 36 of them –
collectively known as Lakshadweep. They form
part of the Union of India and are once of the
country’s newest tourist destinations.
Ten of the islands
are inhabited by simple, peace loving folk whose
language is close to that spoken in Kerala.
The islanders have lifestyles and occupations
that revolve around coconut cultivation, coir
matting and fishing.
Tourism’s major focus is on water sports,
as each of the islands is surrounded by a coral
reef providing large areas of crystal clear
water for everything from snorkelling to wind
surfing. The five islands, which are open to
tourists, have simple accommodation in the shape
of beach cottages. Permits to visit Lakshadweep
can be obtained from the Lakshadweep tourist
office in Cochin.
Regular flights
operate from Cochin to Agatti as well as modestly
priced ship cruises, which stop at all the islands
open to tourism. These cruises begin and end
at Cochin. Bangaram Island is open to foreign
tourists.
Lakshadweep
offers the perfect holiday for those who want
to get away from the artifices of the world
and enjoy a few days in simple yet stunningly
beautiful surroundings.
Karnataka, with its capital as Bangalore, is
home to a fascinating legacy of richly carved
temples, imposing mosques and trappings of royal
past.
Bangalore,
with its many hotels and fine restaurants, is
a good base for exploring the state. At once
a modern industrial city, a shopper’s
paradise and a gracious legacy of the British,
Bangalore is renowned as much for its industrial
plants as for its silk saris, and for the sprawling
Cubbon Park that lies at the heart of the city,
as also its prestigious race course.
Mysore,
the capital of the erstwhile princely state
has a profusion of palaces and museums. Nearby
Srirangapatnam, is linked to the memory of one
of the old states best known ruler – Tipu
Sultan, Somnathpur, a few miles away has a magnificently
carved temple. Once can visit Bandipur Wildlife
Sanctuary also.
Hassan, with a
comfortable hotel, makes the perfect base from
which one can explore the riches of Belur and
Halebid. Also a short distance away, Shravanbelagola
is famous as the pinnacle of the sculptor’s
art. A figure 120metres tall has been carved
out of a single piece of granite in 183 A.D.
Belur and Halebid have between them a series
of carved stone temples. For perfection of finish,
wealth of detail and sheer artistry, they have
unrivalled specimens of the art of temple sculpture.
Andhra Pradesh’s
capital city, Hyderabad
has the atmosphere of an Arabian Nights fairy
tale. Whimsical palaces, erstwhile stately homes
and crowded bazaars filled with shops selling
Hyderabadi pearls, incense and copper utensils
characterize the city, while in the distance
looms Golconda fort.
The city’s
historical connection traces itself to the rulers
or Nizams, whose wealth was legendary. Rooms
full of jewel and currency notes, a garage full
of gleaming Rolls Royce are all now part of
history, but an unique culture lives on, colouring
the city with its distinctive charm. The epicurean
tastes of this most exalted royal house of princely
India gave rise to a fabled cuisine based on
painstaking preparations and slow cooking.
Much of Hyderabad’s
old town can be covered on foot. The city’s
important landmarks include the Charminar, a
16th century gateway; the Salar Jung Museum,
which exhibits priceless treasures alongside
trivia that made up the personal collection
of the owner; Mecca Mosque and Golconda Fort.
Nagarjunakonda
is the site of ongoing excavations, which have
revealed Buddhist temples, stupas and monasteries.
Vishakapatnam,
is one of the finest beach resorts on the eastern
seaboard of India.
